FOREST GUARDS ON THE EDGE

Most Wildlife enthusiasts are aware of the beauty of the forests & wilderness. The excitement that the wildlife offers is second to none as being in the lap of wilderness with the added adventure of facing the denizens of the forest eye to eye is an experience to cherish, enjoy and learn. On the other hand, there are countless contributions behind the scenes by the authorities and the employees of these designated sanctuaries, reserves and National parks that make these memorable experiences exciting and unforgettable.  Innumerable contributions, sacrifices and dangerous executions by the Forest Department staff are the single largest reason for creating these memorable experiences cherished by the wildlife enthusiasts, photographers, tourists and visitors alike.  

Here I pen a real-life experience that I witnessed at Corbett National Park in 2014 when I led a group of wildlife enthusiasts from Ahmedabad. I had booked two separate forest rest houses in two different zones, each for a night to stay in and acquit the group with the enticing, peaceful and breathtaking beauty of the core forest in the dark hours of night. This stay at the first forest rest house proved to be an eye-opening experience of the unimaginable dangers that the forest staff face day in and day out as they execute their duties.


A typical Corbett National Park Landscape

Following our Jungle safari that evening, we retired to the forest house. Post dinner we engaged ourselves in a long experience sharing session around the bonfire and some welcomed tea in the chilly February night. It was about 10.30 pm late in the evening when we invited this friendly Kumauni Forest guard serving on night duty over a cup of warm tea and share some thrilling experiences with us.

Before I proceed, allow me to share that alike any other Government department, it is obvious that lower the hierarchal designation higher is the difficulty level of execution and more so with the Forest Department where the execution of the duty is both risky and life threatening. Therefore, inevitably I am compelled to share some duties of the ‘Forest Guards’ which will help you in evaluating the difficult errands that they are expected to execute.

1         To safeguard the forests against any dangers, harms, or unlawful activity.

2         In his/her beat or charge, to protect forest produce and wildlife.

3         Patrolling in the forest.

4         Forest boundaries to be repaired and maintained.

5         Identify and report any forest violations.

6         Finding the perpetrators of the atrocities committed in the woods.

7         Contribute in various forestry operations that are carried out.

8         Assist the round cops or the Forester.


Typical Forest Guards

To continue, as we were busy listening to some intriguing encounters of the forest guard in the wild, a staff member from the radio control room located on the fringe of the forest house approached us at a fast pace and broke the news to the forest guard that he needs to rush back home to attend to his teenage daughter who had been sick for a while and has suffered a severe fit attack which has left her lying unconscious at home and that his family needs him at home. In a flash, the forest guard was up on his feet and accompanying the wireless staff member he rushed to the control room to seek leave. Concerned, we all walked across the open ground towards the control room and learned that the forest guard was granted a leave.

I learnt from the forest guard that his house was in a small village on the fringes of the forest which was at a distance of 14 kilometers if he took the beaten track route. But I was shocked when I was told that neither was there a vehicle to drop him nor was there any other person who would accompany him. Being concerned when I asked him how would he manage getting home, he informed me that he has decided to take a short cut and walk radially straight which would reduce the distance to 8 kilometers, walking through open grounds, dense outgrowth, under the canopy of tall conifer trees, fording through shallow rivers and rivulets, climbing up and down the precipitous hill slopes, jumping over and passing under the rocky boulders and all this at midnight, in the freezing February night at Corbett National Park and that too  through the forest infested with the likes  of wild Tigers, Elephants, Leopards, Bears, venomous snakes and much more. I was shell shocked and for a few seconds I stood motionless with my eye balls almost popping out of the sockets.


A typical forest house at Corbett National park

If those of you reading this blog are regular visitors to the reserves, sanctuaries and National parks will find it easy to paint a picture of how terrifying it is to take a solitary walk through a calm, dark, freezing dense forest infested with what are generally perceived as the most ferocious animals in the wild. Even a thought of such a situation in a wild dream can make a person pee in his pants. I couldn’t hold myself back and burst up a query to the forest guard, ‘Are you not scared of doing this ? His response was a one liner ‘Of course I am scared but there is no way out, this is a part of our everyday life where we often face such situations’. His response forced me to scan his dress up from top to bottom. He had an old forest department cap on with a black muffler wrapped from over the head to under the chin covering his ears, a T-shirt above which was a thick uniform shirt and over it a thick khaki forest department overcoat with thick pants which were tucked in tattered anklet leather shoes. As for his defense just in case, he had a pathetic weapon, a 5 feet long bamboo stick and he pulled out a China Make battery-operated torch from the pocket of his coat which would illuminate his route and check for the denizens of the forest in the dark.

Being too uncomfortable with the situation, I took an initiative by calling a small conference between the control room employee, the forest guard and the visitor group on how this situation could be best dealt with. I suggested that the wireless man call the headquarter control room and request the authorities to allow the driver of the Jeep accompanying the guests at the forest house to escort the forest guard to his village and return as the driver is well aware of the routes in the zone. Unanimously agreed, the driver was instantaneously summoned, situation explained and fortunately he agreed, provided the permission was granted by the officials. But the driver sprung up a condition, which we had not anticipated and he shared that no matter how well he knew the forest, its routes and the behavior of the animals therein, he wanted at least one more person to accompany him as on the return leg he would be all alone that solitary drive would be scary for him.

The conference was on yet again and I volunteered to board the Jeep as the third person. A call was tossed across on the wireless and proposal presented. We were asked to wait for a return call as the due permissions could only be given by higher officials. We were contacted by the headquarters after 15 uneasy long minutes and a high ranking official permitted the driver and me to accompany the forest guard considering the dangerous route but instructed us clearly that it would be on our own risk and that we would ourselves  be responsible in case anything goes wrong as it is we who volunteered to escort the forest guard. Both the driver and me agreed to it and gave our consent. It was a blessing in disguise for me as a Naturalist being too excited to experience the dense wilderness of Corbett in the dark and to my surprise the driver proved to be more courageous than what I initially perceived him to be. All said and done we boarded the Jeep, me sitting next to the driver and the forest guard in the rear.


Corbett National park at night

The electric fenced gate of the forest house was thrown open to give way and we begin on a journey what I term as an educational ride, one that educated me on the life and risks of a low ranked forest guard. Following the beaten track well illuminated by the bright Jeep headlights we drove down the slope of the knoll on which the forest house stood and in a few minutes were entered an open part of land which was a huge sandy river bank. Here the Jeep headlights revealed hundreds of spotted deer at a distance with their eyes reflecting like the phone lights at a music concert. Alarmed by our approach the entire herd speeded across the open riverbed and in no time took refuge in the outgrowth on the edge of the sandy reiver bed on our side. I looked up to see the sky and found that the ambience was breathtaking as the sky was clear and cloud free with the half-moon well illuminating the river bed seeking some help from thousands of dotted stars. Breaking the pace, we forded the shallow rivulet and drove up the slope to the other side of the river bank and entered into the thick foliaged woody forest. About 200 meters into the forest again I pulled out my long throw torch under suspicion and was rewarded with a sighting of an elephant heard of about 10-12 strong, standing motionlessly holding on to their ground as if they were statues carved out of black granite stones. As we bypassed about 100 meters from them a couple of them turned their heavy heads keeping an eye on probably the lights of Jeep. Next couple of kilometers or so we drove through tall Sal trees which formed a canopy overhead and deprived the moonlight from penetrating down on the ground. Our Jeep lights were now our only source of light and the Jeep engine roaring was the only dominant noise to be heard in the dead and scary calmness of the forest. Although I did hear a few occasional owl hoots with panicky birds fluttering across and langur money calls.  

Gradually we arrived at a long wall like hill which was cut open in the center to make way for the Jungle safari vehicles to pass through. I was told by the beat guard that the exit side of the driving track through the hill is a prime location for the whereabouts of a dominant male Tiger of the area and his information was supported and seconded by the driver. As we exited the cut-out hill track and entered the other side of the hill, I could see why it was a prime location of a predator like a Tiger. There was a wide fordable rivulet at a distance that provided ample water to the ungulates and other animals with enough thick wood trees and foliage on far end of the bank on the other side where the Tiger could take refuge during the day. Either side of the water edges were skirted with rocks and dotted with huge rock boulders at fair distances for the predator to either perch on them or hide behind them when need be. Cypress stalks of about 2-3 feet high jutted out from between the rocks and on the edges of the huge boulders making the area a perfect hiding place for an ambush predator. Now, the forest guard too pulled out his torch as we slowed down the Jeep to ford through the waterflow and we both began scanning the banks of the rivulet on the opposite side with a hope of sighting the elusive predator in the dark hours of the night.

As we forded the rivulet the sound of the water breaking over the rocks and boulders on the side was deafening in contrast to the scary silence we had been through while in the outgrowth area.  We had not yet in the center of the rivulet when I was startled by the tap on my shoulder from behind by the forest guard. When I turned my head behind towards him, I could see him pointing diagonally across the river on the bank towards the forest side where we were bound to with his other hand. I instantly switched my torch on and threw the light in the direction where his torch was aimed. My  torch had a strong and bright throw which I focused on top of a boulder about 60 odd meters from us, and to my surprise I first caught the reflection of two eyes. I took a second or two for me to coordinate my eyesight, my aim and control my adrenalin rush to figure out that it was a Tiger perched on a 4 foot high narrow boulder looking straight at us. It was now that three of us could hear whispers from each other repeatedly uttering the word Tiger. The driver, a smart chap kept uniformity in maintaining the medium pace and was careful not to lose his concentration despite confiding in whispers to us on the fact that this was the first time he has seen a Tiger in dark hours in the forest area. Owing to the safety reasons we did not stop and kept rolling on a medium pace just in case.


A typical Tiger pose on the rock 

The excitement was at its peak as the adrenalin was pumping at a high rate bursting my veins. What more could a Naturalist ask for then to drive through one of the most pristine forests in the world and sight the most sought-after predator in the wild. Two of us, the forest guard and me never blinked our eyes nor we took our sights off the Tiger till we realized that the trees have begun obstructing our view behind us and the driver had gained altitude by driving up the bank and into the forest. This is when the driver picked up some pace and I mustered courage to raise my voice a bit waking up from a mesmerizing experience to realize that I witnessed a spectacle that not many Naturalists are fortunate to witness. But soon I was rocked with a passing thought that how in the world would this forest guard have made it to his destination if he had walked all the way ? All my excitement was drained off in a split second with the passing of the thought. In next 20 minutes we saw a lone Tusker break branches on the way and trumpeted at us under the open sky and finally we reached his village. The forest guard rushed into his house while his neighbors attended to us and on his return, he broke the news that his daughter was feeling better. We were welcomed and well served with some well needed warm tea in the freezing night.

After a while we bid adieu to the forest guard, his family and neighbors and set course for our return to the forest house via the same route keeping in mind that the wireless man would be expecting us back in the legal cordon of the forest house premises and would be waiting eagerly to message the headquarter control room of our safe return. On the way back we encountered deer, elephants, alarm calls of monkeys and birds. We crossed the same rivulet but this time on a faster pace as we had two eyes less to keep a watch. The Tiger was this time was not to be seen as I scanned the area with my torch. I was a bit more tense on the return owing to the disturbing thoughts of having a flat tyre or an engine failure zipping through my mind. I was relieved after a 50 minute ride to see the lights of the forest house from the sandy river bed where we first encountered the heard of spotted deer. We reached the gates to be welcomed by my group as well as the forest wireless employee. The forest house caretaker was up too who invoked some warm tea at the reunion party. Back at the bonfire the group began questioning me on the experience I encountered. My answer was a one liner, ‘These Forest Guards are the real heroes, if we did not offer him a ride, he’d have walked all the way to his house’

That memorable night I learnt that the Jim Corbett’s, Kenneth Anderson’s, Sher Jung’s and many who contributed and inspired thousands are of course wildlife icons, but these forest guards are the living legends who live on the edge every single day of their working life. They deserve more respect and recognition from people of all walks. They’re the fearless fighters for the wildlife and conservation cause.

Haseeb Shaikh
Naturalist
+91 9879146350
haseebsiddique@hotmail.com
#theshaikhwithoutcamels

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